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Catching the big wave

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Dolphins do it and people do it as well – surfing the waves. Floating
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over the ocean’s waves is an adventurous game dolphins had been
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playing long before humans even existed. Some researchers think
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that dolphins ride the waves not only for fun but also to establish
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social relationships and communication within their groups. Others
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speculate that they simply use the power of the waves to get rid of
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parasites and clean their skin.
surfer
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Human surfing dates back to Polynesian cave paintings from the 12th century. In the
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course of seafaring, Polynesians brought surfing to Hawaii where the sport gained
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popularity among people of all ages and social status. In their early history it was
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essential for Hawaiians to choose the right trees for shaping their surfboards.
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In addition, religious rituals were practised during the building process to ask the gods
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for the riders’ protection. So, religion played a significant part in Hawaiian surfing.
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These days, surfing is a sport not only done by people living close to the sea. “It’s only
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a quick flight and everybody can reach the top surf spots worldwide,” surf trip organizer
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Alex White says, “all kinds of people book my trips – some even several times a
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year. Actually, surfing seems to be pretty addictive.” Boris Huckson, a businessman
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and passionate surfer from Australia, confirms this statement. “It’s something that’s
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hard to put into words. It’s you and the perfect wave. Waiting for it and being focused on
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myself and the ocean has a relaxing effect on me, which makes everyday life seem far
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away. Then, when riding the wave, the adrenalin kicks in,” he explains.
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Surfing has become a mass sport. It is estimated that there are about 50 million surfers
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worldwide, spending up to $65 billion per year in international travel. According to a
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survey in 2023, surfing is the third most practised nature-based sport in Australia, with
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a participation of 3.2% of the adult population. The survey clearly shows that the
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country’s regional economy along the coastlines profits from millions of dollars earned
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through travel and the visitors’ surf gear purchases.
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But with the rising popularity of water sports like surfing, their negative impact on
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the marine environment is growing too. Surfboards, wetsuits, and other surf gear
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commonly contain materials like oil-based chemicals and plastics, which can be toxic to
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marine life if discarded or lost in the ocean. Plus, plastic waste carelessly left
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behind on beaches by surfers very often ends up in the ocean and can be mistaken
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for prey by marine animals. With their stomachs full of plastics, many of them starve.
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Moreover, people surfing in tropical locations often walk over coral reefs to reach the
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waves and thus damage the precious marine habitats.
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In order to make the sport more environmentally-friendly, the surfboard industry
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began to develop new boards based on recycled materials or natural fibres such as
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wood or even mushrooms. And, the production of new wetsuits made from natural rubber
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collected from trees in sustainable plantations creates 80% fewer CO₂ emissions than
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neoprene, the oil-based synthetic rubber which most conventional wetsuits are made of.
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In the UK, a surf company is even developing a wetsuit made from recycled neoprene
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suits. In addition, many surfers have organized beach cleanups to care for the animals
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and the environment.
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So, surfing keeps moving forward as many surfers are aware that an intact environment
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is essential when doing a sport so close to nature.

1 (581 words)
2 Adapted from:

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